Tuesday, May 20, 2014

The Secret Coast




Some secrets are meant to be revealed. Explorers and pirates sailed our coast, looking for treasure until their dying days. Those long ago mariners never realized that the ground they set their foot upon was the real treasure.  As the pelican flies, Texas has about 367 miles of coastline. The upper coast is anchored by the beaches of Galveston and the lower coast is anchored by the sands of Padre Island. So we thought that the treasure of the middle coast needed a visit! Our choice was a semi-isolated area known as Matagorda, an unincorporated community at the mouth of the Colorado River. Saltwater bay fishermen know the area well and would prefer to keep the secret of its beauty to themselves, but we think otherwise. This area of the Texas coast is known for excellent flounder, redfish and speckle trout fishing,  but Suzanne and I were interested to discover what other opportunities exist for the Texas traveler.


Our drive down to the coast took us through some of the finest farming communities. Beautiful, vibrant corn, cotton and rice fields dotted the landscape along with cattle and horse ranches. Our first stop was breakfast at Prasek’s in Hillje on US 59 near El Campo. Prasek’s has some of the best kolaches in Texas and who could resist a cup of Texas Southern Pecan coffee to start the morning. Fueled and ready for a day of exploration, we continued our quest down to the coast.



As the mid-morning sun cast her rays upon us, Suzanne and I reached our first destination – Karankawa Village. This coastal oasis consists of an upscale lodge, store (Cattails) and art gallery. The purpose of our stop was to taste their “Chateau Bubba” wines. With a name like that, we expected something special. We were not disappointed. The ladies of the “Cattails” were friendly, informative and enthusiastic about their business. We were so impressed that we bought a bottle of their “Moonlight Mama”, a peach infused chardonnay and “Boot Scootin’ Red” a wonderful blackberry flavored red wine.


Suzanne wanted to run her toes through the sand and hear the roar of the ocean. So we took to the road again and headed toward the ocean’s edge. First we had to navigate the bridge over the Intercoastal waterway. The view was spectacular!  We could see one of the many locks along the waterway with barges and tugboats waiting to pass through. The grass marshland with her trails of water arteries charmed us as we viewed them from above. Unfortunately, we could not stop on the bridge so we descended to the beach house lined road that leads to the beach.


After a short drive along the river, we came to land’s end. The huge parking lot of the Matagorda Bay Nature Park greeted us. On one end stood the Natural Science Center poised to share her secrets of the native plant and animal life. On the other end of the parking lot stood a picnic area with a jetty for fishing or just walking out to enjoy the water.


The beach was lightly populated by families and groups of friends and there was plenty room for newcomers. There were picnics and barbeques underway while kids were exploring the terrain or making sand castles. It was easy to see that everyone was having a great time. At the mouth of the river, many fishermen were focused on the water with their lines tight in anticipation of the next big catch. As the salt infused air filled our nostrils, thoughts of fresh cooked seafood entered my mind.


Convincing Suzanne that it was time to eat lunch, we headed back up the road to the River Bend Restaurant. The restaurant, located on the east bank of the Colorado River, was unremarkable on the outside but well detailed inside with seaside décor. The food was excellent and the view from the windows included an opportunity to watch wild hogs roaming about on the west bank shoreline looking for food. It was entertaining to say the least. We tried the sampler basket of shrimp, oysters, catfish and crab roll and enjoyed all!


With renewed vigor, we slipped back to town. Matagorda may be small in size but it has an interesting array of businesses and old homes to view. We stopped in the tiny Matagorda Museum to learn a little about the town’s history. The people of Matagorda are creating a fabulous place to visit.


By evening, it was once again time to try some local cuisine. The ladies at Cattails suggested we make reservations at the Spoonbill Restaurant. We did and were eager to find out if our efforts were worth the wait. The restaurant was a modified old house with country charm. The food lived up to their reputation in every way. While the menu items sounded delicious, we opted for the off menu specials of the day. Our appetizer was a shrimp dip with avocado and fresh baked bread. The shrimp enchilada entree was wonderful with a rich tasting creamy sauce and large fresh shrimp. The Chocolate Roulade was light and flavorful.


After dinner, it was time to head home. The sights and sounds of this coastal community were enjoyable. We made some new friends and had some new experiences. Suzanne and I hope you will take the time to explore this area of Texas and join us as we see Texas Thru My Back Door!

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